FAQ’s

At MPR Landscapes, we understand that you may have questions about our services. Our FAQ section provides clear answers to common queries, including information on our landscaping services, maintenance plans, project timelines, and more. Whether you’re planning a new garden or need help with seasonal upkeep, we’re here to assist you every step of the way. Explore our FAQ to find the information you need, or contact our team for personalized support.

Frequently Asked Questions

Got questions? Find the answers in our FAQ section for all your landscaping needs.

Spring clean-up

Q. How much does a spring clean-up cost?

A. Though it is not very expensive, the actual cost of a spring clean-up is based on several variables like the size of the property, extent of work to be done, and time and labor the job requires. You can contact us to obtain a written estimate.

Q. What height will you cut my lawn to?

A. This is ascertained by our experts based on several factors including the time of the year. When the weather is hot, the grass has to be cut higher to endure the heat. When the temperatures are cooler, we cut it a little shorter each week.

Q. What can I do with the waste produced by my yard clean-up?

A. Our team will collect the debris from your property and bag it properly. You can use it as manure for your garden.

GRADING AND DRAINAGE

Q. Why is proper grading important?

A. Proper grading is important because it precludes water invasion in your basement or foundations. It is important that soil is graded and well compacted, sloping at a minimum of five percent away from your foundation. Proper grading also makes sure that any water run-off takes it away from your foundation.

Q. How can Drainage Problems be Resolved?

A. Over time, drainage patterns may get disrupted, which may lead to inadequate drainage. These can be restored by grading. If proper grading cannot be achieved because of some constraints, then a subsurface drainage system needs to be installed. If gutters and downspouts are not connected to sufficient drainage pipe system, the rainwater discharged will gather against your foundation and will ultimately leak into your basement. This can be cured by laying solid PVC drainpipes connected to the downspouts to carry water away from the house to lower grade exit.

Q. What is a Swale?

A. A swale is a gently sloping ditch with a two percent gradient. It is normally six to eight feet wide.

Q. What is a Berm?

A. A berm is a bump that is used to steer water flow. You can consider a berm as the opposite of a swale.

Q. What is a French Drain System?

A. This is a slanting underground drainage structure that habitually comprises catch basins or channel drains piped into a trench that is at least 12 inches wide and more than 12 inches deep. This trench is packed with clean VDOT gravel and includes a drainpipe protected by a geotextile fabric.

Q. What is Downspout Drainage?

A. Downspout drainage is created by connecting a four-plus inch solid wall PVC pipe to the downspouts and buried to discharge to daylight or with a pop-up emitter away from the foundation.

Q. Do I need a Sump Pump?

A. Sometimes, yes. When water continues to seep even after all the visible drainage issues have been resolved, it could be due to unknown source of water such as an underground spring or water leaking from utility trenches. You need to consider installing a sump pump.

LAWN SUPPORT IDEAS

Q. How does aeration help my lawn?

A. Aeration makes inroads into the soil to help air and water pass through to the roots of the grass. This process strengthens root development, enables more robust plants, and enhances thickness of the lawn.

Q. How can we improve the thickness of the grass under the trees in my garden?

A. Outdone by the contending tree roots, the grass under a tree is left with an insufficient supply of water and nutrients. It also does not get adequate sunlight under the shade of a tree. We can help this by planting shade resistant grass and regularly pruning trees.

Q. Does the presence of moles indicate that my lawn has grubs?

A. Not necessarily. Moles feed on earthworms and can survive without grubs. Moles will feed on grubs only if they are available.

Q. What are grubs?

A. Grubs represent the larvae stage in the life of a beetle. They can damage your lawn as they feed on the roots of your grass, causing it to die.

Q. Is grub control needed?

A. Yes, on a yearly basis. We can apply a preventive grub control to save your lawn from the damage these pests trigger.

Q. Are the lawn applications safe?

A. The materials used in lawn are already diluted to ensure low toxicity. They are used in full accordance with the labeled instructions.

Q. Is it safe to use the lawn after an application?

A. When granular fertilizer is used, you can go on the lawn right after the application. If liquid material is employed, then let the material to dry on the grass before using the lawn. Drying time, of course, depends on the weather conditions.

Q. When can I mow following a treatment?

A. When a granular material is used, you can mow immediately after. However, wait a minimum 24 hours after a liquid treatment.

Q. Can I water the lawn following a treatment?

A. It is advised not to water immediately after the use of liquid weed control, crabgrass control, or insect control because the material will then be absorbed by the grass. However, it is fine to water the lawn after a granular treatment. In fact, watering within a couple of days of the treatment will increase the efficacy of the product.

Q. What is a good time and frequency to water a lawn?

A. Except cool or very hot weather conditions, lawns should be watered three days a week for fifteen minutes each time. Early morning is the best time to water the lawn. Do not water at night as it is not healthy for your lawn.

Sodding

Selecting the Right Sod Type

Q. Our Sod Selection?

We specialize in installing cool-season Kentucky Bluegrass, which thrives in the Ontario climate and offers exceptional quality and beauty.
Kentucky Bluegrass: Dark green, uniform texture, and tolerant of full sun to partial shade.
Fine Fescue/Kentucky Bluegrass Mix: Versatile and shade and drought tolerant, but with slightly less uniform color or texture.
Turf Type Tall Fescue: Deep-rooted, drought and shade tolerant, and offers good wear tolerance.
Sod for Shady Areas: For shade, consider Fine Fescue/Kentucky Bluegrass (the “Sun/Shade Mix”) or Turf Type Tall Fescue.

Q. Sod for Patching or Blending with Seeded Areas?

Fine Fescue/Kentucky Bluegrass, a 50/50 blend of two grasses, is often a suitable choice.

Q. Sod for High Traffic Areas?

Kentucky Bluegrass is commonly used on sports fields due to its recuperative qualities and lateral rhizome root system.

Q. Sod for Dog-friendly and Poolside Areas?

We recommend Turf Type Tall Fescue for its durability and deep root system, along with Kentucky Bluegrass for its desirable attributes.

Q. Sodding the Better Choice?

Sod offers numerous advantages over grass seed. With sod, you experience a swift transformation of your landscape. Unlike seeds that take weeks to grow and are susceptible to damage from wind or rain, sod is easy to manage and more durable. Additionally, you have a wide selection of grass types, allowing you to customize the appearance of your lawn and enhance your home’s curb appeal in no time.

Sod Preparation

Q. Measuring the Area for Sodding?

We can visit your property to determine the square footage of your area. Alternatively, you can walk around the area with your smartphone’s GPS and calculate the total square footage.

Q. Preparing the Area for Sod Installation?

To prepare your soil for sod, there are several essential steps to follow, including tilling the soil, adding topsoil, and testing the pH level. Proper preparation of your outdoor space is crucial before sodding. Clear the area of any debris, including organic and non-organic matter, and remove the old grass. Ensure there are no obstacles that may hinder the sod installation process. If you are unable to perform these tasks yourself, rely on the commercial lawn management and maintenance services offered by MPR Landscapes

Q. Sod Size and Coverage?

Each piece of sod measures 2 ft x 4.5 ft, covering an area of 9 sq. ft. The weight of one piece of sod is approximately 12 kg. A skid (pallet) of sod contains 80 rolls, providing coverage for 720 sq. ft.

Q. Sod on Top of Existing Grass?

For a vibrant and consistent lawn, it’s best to remove existing grass and debris before installing sod. Leaving the old turf underneath can lead to discolored patches and uneven growth. At MPR Landscapes, we ensure a thorough removal of the areas you want to replace, replacing them with fresh and healthy sod, resulting in a stunning and long-lasting lawn.

Sod Installation

Q. Planning for Sod Installation?

It is crucial to lay the sod on the same day it is purchased. Our sod is cut fresh to order and is a living, perishable plant. Ensure that your site is prepared and ready so that the sod can be installed and watered on the day of delivery.

Q. Time Required for Sod Installation?

Typically, one person can install a pallet of sod (720 square feet) in approximately 2-2½ hours. However, harder-to-access areas or those requiring extensive cutting may take longer.

Q. Best Time to Install Sod?

Sod can be successfully installed throughout the growing season, as long as the ground is not frozen and sufficient watering is available for proper root establishment. Spring and fall, with cooler temperatures and occasional rain, are particularly favorable for quick root establishment. In hot and dry summers, ensure deep and thorough watering in the morning and afternoon.

Q. Frost and Newly Laid Sod?

Frost won’t harm newly laid Kentucky Bluegrass sod. While sod cannot be installed on frozen ground, once it’s laid, frost poses no threat. The grass will lay dormant during colder periods and resume rooting as temperatures rise.

Sod Watering

Q. Watering Rolled Sod on the Pallet?

No, it is not advisable to water the sod while it is still rolled up on the pallet. Sod contains a significant amount of nitrogen, and if left rolled up, it can heat up and start to ferment.
This is especially true in hot weather. Instead, if you cannot install all of your sod within 24 hours, consider the following tips to prolong its shelf life:
Unroll the sod in another location and water it.
If step #1 is not feasible, place the pallet(s) in the shade.
Remove the top half of the rolls from the pallet to allow better oxygen circulation to the bottom layers.

Q. Watering New Sod after Installation?

Immediately after laying the sod, begin watering it within 30 minutes. Apply at least 1 inch of water to ensure the soil beneath the turf is thoroughly wet. Ideally, the soil should be moist to a depth of 3-4 inches below the surface.

Q. Watering New Sod at Night?

Avoid watering new sod in the late evening or at night to prevent excess moisture that can promote disease and fungus. Morning and late afternoon are the recommended watering times.

Q. Frequency to Water New Sod?

Watering is essential for the successful establishment of new sod. Regular and consistent watering is crucial for the roots to establish a firm hold in the soil. Depending on weather conditions, we recommend watering for five to ten minutes, two to three times a day. Keep a close eye on your lawn, particularly for dry patches or areas where the sod isn’t settling properly. Watering in the morning or late afternoon is optimal to ensure proper absorption and avoid issues such as disease or fungus growth.

Post-Installation Sod Care

Q. Water?

Water is crucial for successful sod establishment. It’s nearly impossible to over-water new sod. Water it twice a day for the first two weeks to ensure sufficient hydration.

Q. No Walking on Freshly Laid Sod?

Minimize pet and foot traffic on new sod until it has fully rooted. Sod typically takes about 3-4 weeks to fully root, establishing a strong connection with the underlying soil. Check for rooting by gently pulling a corner of the sod. If you feel resistance and difficulty lifting it, the roots have taken hold.

Q. Disappearance of Sod Lines?

When sod is installed correctly, there won’t be gaps or overlaps, but visible seams may be present. These seams become less noticeable as the sod takes hold and starts growing. Proper watering is essential, as dry sod can shrink and expose the lines. Usually, sod lines disappear after the first grass cutting, approximately three weeks after installation.

Q. Yellowing Sod Seams?

Sod seams are prone to drying out faster than other areas. To address this, keep the sod seams consistently moist for a while. Give them extra water, and they will recover and regain their healthy appearance.

Q. Mushrooms in New Sod?

The presence of mushrooms in your new sod is a natural occurrence, especially due to the increased watering. These mushrooms are not harmful and will typically dry up and disappear as watering becomes less frequent.

Q. Fertilization Timing for New Sod?

Sod farms apply fertilizer before harvesting the sod. This means that the sod you receive is already fertilized. It is advisable to wait at least 4 weeks after installation, once the root system is established, before fertilizing the new sod. If the sod was installed during the winter or dormant period, it is best to wait until spring green-up before applying fertilizer. Prior to fertilizing, ensure that the sod has been thoroughly watered the day before. This allows the soil to absorb the nutrients effectively, promoting healthy growth.

Q. Mowing Newly Installed Sod?

You can start mowing the sod as soon as it needs it, but make sure to set the mower blade at its highest setting for the first few mowings. As a general rule, avoid cutting more than one-third of the blade length to prevent shocking the plant.

Q. Mowing Recommendations for New Sod?

To promote healthy growth and prevent fungus, maintain sharp mower blades for a clean cut. It’s best to mow the grass when it is dry. Aim to mow regularly, keeping the grass at a good height of around 2 ½ – 3 inches. Avoid mowing too short, as it adds stress to the plant and requires extra care.

Q. Clippings and Thatch?

Clippings, when not excessive, decompose quickly and return valuable nutrients to the soil. They do not contribute to thatch buildup, which is caused by grass stems, shoots, and roots.

Q. Dealing with Dog Spots?

Discolored spots on the lawn are often caused by urine, which contains salts and ammonia. Immediately sprinkle the affected area with water to dilute the salts or set your sprinkler timer to come on after your dog goes out. This will help minimize damage. In winter, with rain and cooler temperatures, grass burning is less likely.

Q. Managing Weeds with Sodding?

While sodding reduces weed growth, it doesn’t eliminate them entirely. Weeds can regrow since their root systems can extend several feet, whereas the sod cutter only removes 2 inches of the existing lawn. To ensure a weed-free lawn, proper care is essential after sodding. If you have significant weed issues, we recommend a pre-sodding weed treatment. Our non-toxic and environmentally safe options can effectively address the problem. Contact us for more details.

Need Landscape Project?

Contact us and get a free estimate for your needs.

Scroll to Top